The History of Vitamin A and Retinol: From Ancient Egypt to Modern Skincare

Retinol is one of skincare's most respected ingredients. But the story of vitamin A begins about 3,500 years ago, with ancient Egyptian doctors and a remedy made from liver.

Ancient Egypt: liver for night blindness

Long before anyone knew vitamins existed, ancient physicians recognized night blindness. The Egyptian Ebers Papyrus (around 1500 BC) recommended roasted ox liver as a remedy, and an even older Egyptian papyrus mentions eating liver for a woman who could not see.^[1]

The ancient Greeks, including Hippocrates, also recommended liver for night blindness.^[1][2] They had no way of knowing why it worked, but we now know the liver is the body's main storehouse of vitamin A, and night blindness is one of the earliest signs of vitamin A deficiency.^[1]

Discovering "fat-soluble factor A"

In 1913, researchers in the United States, including Elmer McCollum and Marguerite Davis at the University of Wisconsin, identified an essential nutrient in fats such as butter and cod liver oil.^[2] It became known as "fat-soluble A," and later, vitamin A. Over the following decades, scientists determined its chemical structure and discovered that the body could make it from carotene in plants.

From nutrition to skincare

The family of compounds related to vitamin A is called retinoids. In 1946, scientists discovered vitamin A acid, now known as tretinoin, and in the 1960s, researchers including dermatologist Albert Kligman began studying its effects when applied to the skin.^[3] Tretinoin became a prescription treatment and went on to transform dermatology.

Retinol, the form found in many over-the-counter skincare products, is gentler. The skin converts it step by step into retinoic acid. That makes it a popular choice for people who want to improve the look of fine lines and uneven texture without a prescription.

Why regulation is different for retinol skincare

In the US, whether a skincare product is regulated as a cosmetic or a drug depends on its intended use. Products meant to cleanse or improve appearance are cosmetics, while products intended to treat disease or affect the body's structure or function are drugs.^[4] Prescription tretinoin is an FDA-approved drug. Over-the-counter retinol serums marketed to improve the appearance of skin are cosmetics.

Using retinol wisely

• Start slowly, 2 to 3 nights a week, and increase gradually.
• Mild dryness or flaking in the first few weeks is common.
• Use retinol at night and wear sunscreen every morning.
• Avoid retinoids if you're pregnant, trying to conceive, or breastfeeding, and talk to your doctor.
• Always patch test first.

For a step-by-step routine, read A Simple Face Serum Routine and Retinol + Peptides: A Skincare Guide.

The bottom line

From roasted liver in ancient Egypt to a Wisconsin nutrition lab to modern dermatology, vitamin A has one of the longest histories of any skincare ingredient.

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Sources

1. Night Blindness and Ancient Remedy. NIH PubMed Central.
2. Kiser PD, Golczak M, Palczewski K. Chemistry of the retinoid (visual) cycle. Chem Rev. 2014.
3. Retinoids in Dermatology. CRC Press.
4. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?)

Individual results vary. This content is for educational purposes only and is not medical advice. Consult a dermatologist if you have a skin condition or concerns about a product. Historical uses are described for context only.